Est. 1931 · The Ministry The independent guide to rooibos, the red bush of the Cederberg. Rooibos.biz
THE MINISTRY OF ROOIBOS SINE CAFFEINA, SINE METU The Ministry of Rooibos
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ROOIBOS
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The Rooibos Trade

How the red bush is priced without a public auction, where the crop actually goes, what its certification marks verify, how the name is legally protected, and how concentrated the buying side really is.

12 min read20 sources
A cargo ship off Cape Town, the port every container of rooibos leaves through on its way to any of the more than fifty countries that now buy it.
A cargo ship off Cape Town, the port every container of rooibos leaves through on its way to any of the more than fifty countries that now buy it.Marlin Clark

The rooibos trade is the business side of a single crop: how the red bush is priced, sold, certified, protected, and who buys it. This Ministry does not usually trouble a reader with commerce, but the shape of a trade explains a great deal about the cup at the end of it, and this one's shape is unusual. It is a small industry by world standards, and an unusually concentrated one. Every commercial bush grows in one valley, the Cederberg, spanning parts of South Africa's Western and Northern Cape, and from that one valley the leaf reaches more than 50 countries1. It has never had a public auction. It carries several competing certification schemes, most of them optional and most of the crop carrying none. The name itself sits behind three separate legal shields, built in three different decades on three different continents. And the buying side is concentrated enough that South Africa's competition authorities took an interest in it.

This guide covers those five things: how the price is set without an open market, where the crop goes, what the certification marks on a tin actually verify, how the word "rooibos" came to be legally protected, and how few hands the crop passes through on its way out of the country. It does not cover the plant, its cultivation, its processing, or the health research, which live elsewhere on this site: start with What is rooibos for the plant itself.

How the price is set: a crop with no auction

Most of the world's tea is priced in public. Sri Lanka's Colombo Tea Auction sold its first lot in 18834, settled into a weekly rhythm by 1885, was formalized by the Ceylon Chamber of Commerce in 1894, and still runs on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, evaluating around 12,000 lots a week. East Africa's Mombasa Tea Auction began in Nairobi in 19565, moved to the coast in 1969, and now acts as the central clearing house for tea from more than ten countries, trading in US dollars since 1992 and settling within ten working days. A buyer in either room can watch a price form in the open.

Rooibos has never had such a room. The reason is historical rather than accidental. From 1954 to 1993, a single government-appointed body, the Rooibos Tea Control Board, was the only legal buyer and seller of the crop. A grower sold to the Board at the Board's price and no other transaction was lawful, so there was no price-discovery problem for an auction to solve. The full account of that arrangement is in the story of the Control Board.

Since deregulation in 1993 the crop has moved privately. Large volumes are contracted annually within existing grower, processor, and trader relationships3, supplemented by bilateral deals, and roughly 95 percent of exports leave the country as loose bulk leaf rather than finished packaged product. There is no single transparent market that sets the price. A farmer negotiates with a processor; a processor negotiates with a trader; nobody publishes the number.

The closest thing to a public reference price is the Fairtrade Minimum Price. Fairtrade International lists rooibos among the products carrying a fixed minimum price plus a separate Fairtrade Premium6, which means that for the certified share of the crop there is at least one published floor. It covers a minority of the harvest and it is a floor, not a market rate. The fuller account of the absence and what fills it is in why rooibos has no auction.

Where the crop goes

The trade's scale is modest and its direction is outward. Exports have grown briskly this decade even as the Cederberg's own harvests have tightened2, more leaving on a smaller crop, which the South African Rooibos Council itself reads as a supply squeeze rather than a boom to chase. Its chairperson, Dawie de Villiers, put the industry's own position plainly: "Rooibos is not a volume-driven commodity. Its long-term value lies in quality, origin integrity and responsible stewardship." The specific tonnages move every season; the current figures live in the fuller export account, which the Ministry keeps up to date.

Japan is the single largest buyer now, a position it took from Germany earlier this decade, with Germany, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, and France rounding out the established markets. Germany held the top spot for nearly six decades before that. From the mid-1960s onward Germany was the world's largest rooibos importer, and by 2000 German trading houses bought roughly three-quarters of all exported rooibos and resold about a third of that onward to other countries, which made Germany the overseas logistics hub of a crop that does not grow within a thousand miles of it19. Germany remains a top-five destination and is no longer the front of the queue. The full account of a market that never grew a single bush is in Germany and rooibos.

A large share never leaves South Africa at all. By the industry's own accounting, close to half of the crop the export and domestic figures together account for is drunk at home or elsewhere in southern Africa18, a share easy to miss when reading the export tables alone. The fuller reckoning, and why it goes largely unremarked, is what South Africa keeps for itself.

Certification: what the marks on the tin verify

A rooibos label may carry an organic seal, a Fair Trade mark, a Rainforest Alliance mark, some combination, or nothing at all. Most rooibos sold carries nothing, and the absence of a mark says little about the leaf. Each scheme verifies a different thing, and none of them verifies flavour.

Mark What it verifies How it works in rooibos
Organic The farming method: no synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, audited against an organic standard Held by many Cederberg growers, including cooperatives certified organic from founding
Fair Trade A guaranteed minimum price paid to the grower, plus a premium the growers themselves decide how to spend Arrived in the industry around 2006; the mandatory premium is five rand (about US$0.30) per kilogram7
Rainforest Alliance / UTZ Environmental and labour practices on the farm, audited by an outside body UTZ finalized its rooibos Code of Conduct on 23 March 2011; Rainforest Alliance worked from June 2011 via a Rooibos Interpretation Guideline7 adapting a standard written for tropical rainforest farming to Cape fynbos; premium about 43 South African cents (about 3 US cents) per kilogram

Two of those marks used to be separate organisations and are now one. Rainforest Alliance and UTZ announced in June 2017 that they would merge into a single certifying body with a single standard8. UTZ executive director Han de Groot described the problem the merger was meant to fix, which was farms paying twice for two audits of much the same ground: "and this doesn't do a good service to them or bring many additional benefits."

The Rainforest Alliance adaptation is worth pausing on, because it shows what certification in this crop actually involves. A standard designed for tropical rainforest agriculture does not transfer cleanly to a semi-arid Cape mountain shrubland. The Rooibos Interpretation Guideline exists because somebody had to rewrite the questions before they could be sensibly asked of a Cederberg farm.

Who holds certification is not simply a matter of who wants it. A peer-reviewed survey of 300 rooibos farmers published in Foods in 20229 found that more schooling and a larger farm raised the odds of holding certification, renting rather than owning land lowered them, and off-farm income helped. It also found a pattern the study itself flags as counterintuitive: belonging to a farmers' association reduced the odds of certification rather than raising them. And while fewer than 2 in 100 surveyed held no certification at all, more than 3 in 10 had never heard of a quality assurance system. The fuller treatment of all three schemes is in rooibos certification explained.

None of these marks is the same thing as legal protection of the name. A certificate says something about how a particular farm operates. The protections in the next section say something about who may use the word at all.

The word "rooibos" is protected by three distinct instruments, raised in this order, and the full story of each is a separate record on this site; this is the map.

One: a private US claim, given up. A US company held exclusive US rights to the word "rooibos" through the 1990s and 2000s and used them to demand payment from small tea sellers10, on the strength of a registration South African industry challengers argued no one should be able to hold over the plain name of a plant. A decade of dispute and roughly US$1 million in legal spending later, both sides agreed in 2005 to cancel their registrations outright. It did not create protection so much as clear away a private claim on a common noun, and the fuller account, including who challenged it and how the fight actually ended, is in four times someone tried to own the word rooibos.

Two: domestic protection in South Africa (2013). South Africa gave the name its own legal shield at home in 2013, and did so using the Merchandise Marks Act, a consumer-protection statute from 1941, rather than a purpose-built geographical indication law. A dedicated instrument existed on paper: the Intellectual Property Laws Amendment Act 28 of 2013 was signed in December 2013 and amended the Trade Marks Act to allow GI registration, but was never brought into force11, lacking the presidential proclamation that would commence it. So the country protected its most famous agricultural name with a seventy-year-old law against misleading trade descriptions, which worked.

Three: EU Protected Designation of Origin (31 May 2021). The European Union entered "Rooibos" into its register of Protected Designations of Origin on 31 May 202112, the first African food product to receive that status14. The protection is geographic: only leaf grown and processed within a defined zone of 16 municipalities across the Western and Northern Cape may be sold in the EU as rooibos. For a reader outside Europe, the clearest way to place that status is by its company: PDO is the same legal category that holds Champagne15, a name that belongs to a place and cannot travel with the product.

The protection survived Brexit intact. Rooibos continues to hold GI protection in the United Kingdom13 through a transition agreement between the UK and the Southern African Customs Union, reciprocal in the other direction, so UK-origin names such as Stilton remain protected in South Africa.

The US trademark fight was not the first attempt to own the word, only the most expensive. At least four separate parties in four countries tried across more than a century, one of them the very family that built the industry, who gave up its own trademark on the word voluntarily. The full sequence is in four times someone tried to own the word rooibos, and the complete legal picture in how the name is protected.

How concentrated the buying side is

Between several hundred farmers and the world sits a small number of processors. The industry counts 11 processors in total handling the crop for both domestic and export markets18, five of them members of the South African Rooibos Council: Rooibos Limited, Cape Natural Tea Products, The Red T Company, Cape Rooibos, and Skimmelberg. The same accounting counts about 300 commercial farmers and about 150 small-scale farmers at Wupperthal, with about 60 more at Moedverloor and Heiveld.

One firm is much larger than the rest. Rooibos Limited, the direct commercial successor to the old state Control Board, is one of eight large processing firms that together hold roughly 90 percent of the market, with Rooibos Limited alone controlling around 60 percent of it17.

That share drew a competition case. South Africa's Competition Commission investigated a complaint against Rooibos Limited16, alleging that its long-term exclusive supply contracts with farmers amounted to an abuse of a dominant market position. The case settled by consent, confirmed by the Tribunal in November 2020, with no liability admitted and no penalty paid. Rooibos Limited agreed, going forward, to cap future exclusive supply contracts at five years, drop any clause barring a farmer from also selling to a rival, and publish its production research openly. Nothing was proven; the practices complained of stopped. The full account, including the complaint, the referral, and both sides' own words, is in the Rooibos Limited market dominance case.

The other pole: smallholder cooperatives

Selling into a concentrated processing market is not the only route out of the Cederberg. The alternative is to sell collectively, and the clearest example is the Heiveld Co-operative in the Suid Bokkeveld.

A group of Suid Bokkeveld smallholders registered Heiveld in 200120, organic-certified from the start, and won Fairtrade certification in 2003. It grew from 14 founding members to 62 by 2012 and roughly 73 by 2015, won a United Nations Development Programme Equator Prize in 2014, and is credited with roughly quadrupling local farming incomes. Who founded it and how is its own, fuller story, told next.

The structural point is straightforward. A cooperative pools its members' harvest, certifies and markets it under its own name, and negotiates as one seller rather than as several dozen small ones. The margin that would otherwise go to a trader stays among the members. It is a small share of the national crop and it is the trade's other pole, and the story of how it began is in the farmers who bought back the land.

The shape of the business

Lay the pieces next to one another and the trade has a distinct outline. There is no open market where the price of the red bush is discovered in public, and there never has been, because for forty years the law made one unnecessary and since then habit and relationships have done the work instead. A cancelled US trademark claim, a 2013 South African shield, and a 2021 European one now stand between the word "rooibos" and anyone who would try to own it again. The buying side passes through eleven processors, one of which is large enough to have answered a competition referral. And alongside all that, a few dozen families in the Suid Bokkeveld sell their own harvest under their own name, proof that the concentrated route is a choice the trade has made, not the only one available to it.

This Ministry files trade matters here precisely because they are easy to overlook from the vantage point of a full kettle. Nobody needs to know any of it to make a good cup. But the red bush did not arrange its own passage from the Cederberg to the world, and this is the record of who did, and on what terms.

Filed and Sealed

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